You may not have boiling issues within the engine, but it will be running much hotter, probably affecting timing, fuel detonation, etc.Īlso, freezing is probably not a concern for you, but straight glycol is super viscous as temperatures drop. You say it's running fine idling at a stoplight on a spring day, I'll wager you have issues on a hot day under heavy load. Nothing is going to shuttle heat from your engine to your radiator more efficiently than water. I would be very hesitant to fill my cooling system with anything other than what it was designed for.įor one thing, the reason water is such a popular coolant is that it has pretty much the highest specific heat capacity of any substance that isn't flammable, reactive, or poisonous. If anyone has a link or actual saved pages of the originals, w/ full image content, of Wallyman's posts, please add, or put up with a link so others can access them. I know just enough to get in trouble, but I have at least one spare NA6 instrument pod, so the setup is one big mistake deep. The links I found have enough info to do the NA6, NA8 and NB at least through 2003 versions, if you should be mucking about with old school printed circuits. Enough for the job, IMO.įurther search on Google ( ) got a past post here of the (NA6?) OEM and linear gauges vs temp series of pics(From original Wallyman 1.6 post, IMO, now attached below.), and a schematic diagram, and attached Word document (It opened for me) by the later writer on the mods for his NB, giving full credit to Wallyman for his earlier work. The duckduckgo search found Wallyman's NA8 set of directions, with not quite half the images. I probably was supposed to download a link of files? The directions for the NA6 in my files seem digestible without images, PM me for copies. The links to the NA6 and NB are dead, and ALL the figures are dead. The saved article verifies my hunch, Wallyman originally showed 3 different procedures, for the NA6, NA8 and '99 to 2003 gauge electrics. Thinking on this, I found motivation to dig into my files. I haven't calibrated my NA6 gauges, but reckon the flat part of Wallyman's '97 OEM curve is 'less flat' on the NA6s I've had, but not much. The gauge doesn't start moving til a significantly higher temp. This is actually worse than a simple 3 position switch, as the linear behavior up to 'normal' leads one to think the behavior at increasing temps will be similar. Zero response to see over the whole of the normal/safe temp range. The NA8 gauge response curve is disgustingly close to a 3 position switch, with a bit of activity at the top again. See below for the curves of stock, bare modified and with a 10ohm resistor in series. Most images in the link don't show, but some appear if you click on them, including diagrams of stock response curve, straight modified, and with several resistors added to the circuit. My files had? the series of pics of stock and linearized gauges vs temp (See below) The only hit in my duckduckgo search with "linearization" connected to OEM Miata temp gauge got the original article (NA8 version), but just the first page, not the pics of stock and modified gauge. Once into the real danger zone, it's roughly proportional again. The stock gauge responds linearily to each upward temp increment, till 'normal, then, not so much. The original article by Wallyman on linearizing the OEM gauge had a line of photos of the stock gauge, and actual coolant temp, and a line of photos of a gauge after the linearization mod to the gauge electronics. Rumors the stock temp gauge is basically a 3 location switch don't really jibe with instrument tests.
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